Ghost Towns And Ruins · Volume 12
Getting There: Seven States, Seven Sets of Rules
Introduction
Every destination in this dive is somewhere you drive to and most are somewhere you can sleep near. Those are two different legal questions with two different answers, and the trip-planning advice in circulation gets both wrong in the same way: it is out of date.
Most of this volume is Michigan, because Michigan is home and because its rules are the ones that will become habit. The last section is the reason to read it before crossing a state line — and the section before the checklist is the reason to read it before crossing a forest line, because Michigan’s three national forests do not share a camping rule with the state or with each other.
⭐ THE FINDING THAT ORGANISES THIS VOLUME: the six other states in this dive do not merely have different camping rules from Michigan — two of them have the exact opposite rule. Michigan requires you to camp close to the road. North Carolina’s Pisgah District requires you to camp far from it. A single habit cannot satisfy both, and the habit is the dangerous part, because it is invisible once formed.
12.1 The road half
🔴 “The Lower Peninsula is closed unless posted open” is obsolete. It was true, and a great deal of advice still repeats it. Public Act 288 of 2016 opened most state forest roads in the northern Lower Peninsula to ORV use effective January 1, 2018, and required the DNR to inventory and map every state forest road in the state.
State forest road inventory, mileage effective April 1, 2025:
Table 1 — State forest road inventory, mileage effective April 1, 2025
| Region | Open year-round | Closed or seasonal | Total |
|---|---|---|---|
| Upper Peninsula | 5,706.4 | 94.2 | 5,800.6 |
| Northern Lower Peninsula | 6,094.9 | 1,191.8 | 7,286.7 |
| Southern Lower Peninsula | 9.1 | 350.0 | 359.1 |
| All locations | 11,810.4 | 1,636.0 | 13,446.4 |
Two true statements come out of that table and both matter:
- By proportion the UP is far freer — 1.6% of its forest-road mileage is closed or seasonal, against 16.4% in the northern Lower. The old lore is right about the character of the two peninsulas.
- By absolute mileage the northern Lower is bigger — 6,094.9 open miles against 5,706.4. For a weekend out of southern Michigan it is not the consolation prize it gets described as.
🔴 The southern Lower Peninsula has 9.1 miles of open state forest road. Effectively zero. Nothing in the southern third of the state is reached by public dirt, which is why Cluster 8 is a road trip and not an overland trip.
The mechanism is now uniform: all roads not closed by a Land Use Order of the Director are open, and “These roads are open to Secretary of State licensed motor vehicles.” Closure is the exception and has to be ordered.
⚠ The maps reissue every April 1. Comments close August 31, the Natural Resources Commission reviews in January and February, changes take effect April 1. A GPX layer downloaded two seasons ago is not current — re-pull it each spring.
12.2 The licence-plate trap
This is the finding worth the volume, and it hides in a DNR answer that reads at first like good news:
My truck has a street license plate. Do I need an ORV license and trail permit to ride on designated ORV routes?
No… If, however, the route is not passable by a conventional two-wheel-drive passenger automobile designed for highway use, then the vehicle is being used as an ORV and requires both an ORV license and a trail permit.
🔴 The exemption is not about your plate. It is about the road. Everyone reads the first word and stops. The second sentence takes it straight back the moment the two-track gets interesting. The test is not what you are driving — it is whether a conventional 2WD car could drive what you are driving on.
This is internally consistent with the statute, which defines a forest road as a route “capable of travel by a two-wheel drive, four-wheel conventional vehicle designed for road use.” Anything harder than 2WD-passable is, by definition, not forest-road driving.
⭐ So buy both, every year, and stop thinking about it. An ORV licence is $26.25 and the trail permit $10.00 — $36.25 total, valid April 1 to March 31. It is the cheapest line item on this entire rig, it removes an unanswerable judgement call from every trip, and it turns a roadside conversation into a sticker. You cannot know in advance whether a route will be 2WD-passable on the day, because a graded gravel lane in June is not the same road in April.
⚠ Routes, not trails. The designated system runs 24-inch motorcycle trails, 50-inch ORV trails, and 72-inch minimum ORV routes. A full-size truck belongs on routes. And 72 inches is a maintenance minimum, not a clearance promise — a crew cab is wider than that across the mirrors, and nobody trimmed the trees for you this year.
12.3 The camping half
The source here is the DNR’s Camp Registration Card, form PR4134, which is not a brochure — it is the form you are required to post, and its reverse carries the State Land Rules verbatim.
🔴 “Camp” includes sleeping in any manner between 10 p.m. and 8 a.m. Pulling onto a two-track at eleven and sleeping across the back seat is camping. The tent staying folded changes nothing. This is the clause that makes every rule below apply to a truck-based trip.
The card. Free, no reservation, no fee — but three of the four instructions are counter-intuitive:
Table 2 — are counter-intuitive
| Instruction | What people get wrong |
|---|---|
| Post it before making camp | Not after you settle in |
| Leave it at the site on departure | It is not a permit you carry away |
| Not on the camper, not nailed to a tree | The two obvious places are both prohibited |
| Pencil, with every party member’s name and full address | One card is often not enough |
⭐ Print a stack before the trip and keep them dry in the cab with a pencil. There is no app and no online registration.
The two distances.
- One mile — it is unlawful to camp on state land within a mile of a designated state forest campground. This is what rules out most convenient pull-offs, and it rules them out because they are convenient.
- 🔴 Fifty feet — it is unlawful to park a motor vehicle more than 50 feet from the traveled portion of a road, forest road, parking lot or trail open to it. This kills the photograph. The overlanding image — truck alone in the middle of a clearing — is illegal on Michigan state land. In practice you camp beside a two-track, and the site you are hunting is a widened pull-off, not a meadow.
The two clocks, which the popular summary conflates into one wrong rule:
- 15 consecutive nights in one spot, year-round. To count as a new camp the next one must be at least a mile away.
- 21 days total dispersed camping between October 1 and May 1 — a seasonal cap, not a consecutive-stay allowance.
Two rules that ambush trip plans:
- ⚠ A site left unoccupied more than 24 hours is unlawful. That lands squarely on the base-camp plan — setting up outside Grayling and spending two full days out exploring is the pattern this prohibits. If a site will be empty longer than a day, break it down.
- ⚠ State game and wildlife areas ban camping May 15 to September 10, except in designated areas. They look identical to state forest land on most mapping apps and are not the same thing.
Penalty: up to $500 and costs.
12.4 The federal half of Michigan — three forests, three different rules
Everything above is state land. A large share of this dive is not: the Copper Country sits beside the Ottawa, the eastern and central UP sites sit in or beside the Hiawatha, and the western Lower Peninsula sites sit in the Huron-Manistee. The state rules do not apply on any of them, and — this is the point of the section — the three forests do not agree with each other either.
⭐ THE FINDING: one state, one agency, three camping orders, and the setback from water is 0 feet, 50 feet and 200 feet depending on which forest the tyres are on. Nothing marks the boundary on the ground.
Table 3 — The federal half of Michigan — three forests, three different rules
| Ottawa NF | Hiawatha NF | Huron-Manistee NF | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Governing order | 09-07-21-04, Occupancy and Use (18 Mar 2021) | R910-16-10, Occupancy and Use (3 Jun 2016) | R904-18-02, Occupancy and Use (7 Mar 2018) |
| Dispersed stay limit | 16 consecutive days | 16 consecutive days | 16 consecutive days in 30 |
| Then what | move at least 5 miles, for a further stay of no more than 16 days | move at least 5 miles, for a further stay of no more than 16 days | 🔴 move OFF the National Forest for two weeks |
| Setback from water | 🔴 none in the order | 50 feet | 🔴 200 feet, except at designated sites |
| Developed campground | 14 consecutive days, then 1 mile for 24 hours | 14 consecutive days, then 1 mile for 24 hours | 14 consecutive days in 30, then off the campground |
| Fee or permit to disperse | none | none — except 23 named dispersed sites, which need a permit | none |
| Campfire rule worth knowing | — | — | no fire within 200 ft of water or of a designated trail, except at designated sites |
Penalties are the standard federal ones: up to $5,000 for an individual, $10,000 for an organisation, and up to six months.
12.4.1 The three things in that table that will actually catch you
🔴 1. The water setback is the trap, and it runs the wrong way from expectation. The Huron-Manistee — the closest of the three to home, and the one most likely to become habit — is the strictest, at 200 feet from any river, lake, stream or other body of water. The Hiawatha asks 50 feet. The Ottawa’s order asks nothing at all.
⚠ Read the Ottawa’s silence carefully. No setback appears in order 09-07-21-04 or in the forest’s published camping guidance. That is an absence of a rule, not a published permission, and it sits alongside posted closures, the Sylvania orders and the MVUM. It is not an invitation to park on a lakeshore — and it is the one row in this table worth confirming by telephone before relying on it.
🔴 2. The Huron-Manistee’s reset is the harshest in this dive: not “move five miles” but move OFF the forest for two weeks. The Ottawa and the Hiawatha both let a long trip continue five miles down the road. The Huron-Manistee does not.
⭐ 3. And this resolves a conflict recorded elsewhere in this project. Sources disagree about whether the Huron-Manistee limit is 14 days or 16. Both numbers are in the order, and they describe different camping: 14 days is the developed campground limit, 16 is the dispersed limit. The popular summaries quote one number and drop the word that distinguishes them.
12.4.2 Two Hiawatha orders that close specific ground
🔴 Camping is prohibited outright along roughly twenty miles of Lake Superior beach in the Sault Ste. Marie Ranger District — the sections of T47N, R3–6W lying north of Forest Highway 42, in Chippewa County, between the Whitefish Bay shoreline and Lakeshore Drive — except at developed recreation areas designated for it (order R910-16-05, 3 June 2016, under 36 CFR 261.58(e)).
⚠ That is the Whitefish Point corner, which is the approach to Shelldrake in vol 5. The beach camp that corner suggests is not available; sleep inland or at a developed site.
Big Island Lake Wilderness runs its own numbers (order R910-16-04, same date): no camping within 200 feet of any shoreline or of another designated campsite, none within 100 feet of any trail or portage, six people to a campsite and ten to a group, fires only in the metal rings provided, and no glass containers. ⚠ Those are wilderness figures, not Hiawatha figures — the forest-wide setback is still 50 feet. A summary that reports the 200-foot wilderness number as the forest’s rule is the commonest error about this forest.
Sylvania, on the Ottawa, is not dispersed country at all: it runs on a special recreation permit and designated backcountry sites reserved through Recreation.gov, with a separate perimeter order (09-07-21-06).
12.4.3 The road half, federally
🔴 All three forests have been closed to motor-vehicle use except on designated roads, trails and areas for over twenty years (36 CFR 261.13). The MVUM governs. A two-track on the ground, a number on a post, and a line on a paper atlas are none of them permission — and since 1 October 2021 the designations cover OHVs as well. Pull the current MVUM for each forest before the trip; they are free, and they are the document a federal officer is holding.
Worth the call rather than the guess:
Table 4 — Worth the call rather than the guess:
| Forest | Number |
|---|---|
| Hiawatha — Supervisor’s Office | 906-428-5800 |
| Huron-Manistee — Supervisor’s Office | 231-775-2421 |
| Huron-Manistee — Baldwin / White Cloud RD | 231-745-4631 |
⚠ The Ottawa’s Supervisor’s Office number was not confirmed in this pass and is deliberately not guessed here.
12.5 The five-minute pre-trip checklist
- Pull the current forest-road layer — reissued every April 1.
- Camp Grayling range report if the route touches Crawford, Kalkaska or Otsego. Range Control 989-344-6156.
- ORV licence and trail permit current — they expire March 31.
- Check Land Use Orders for anything unusual on the route.
- Blank PR4134 cards and a pencil in the cab.
- 🔴 Establish whose ground the night’s camp is on before leaving. State forest wants the truck within 50 feet of the road and a posted card; the Huron-Manistee wants it 200 feet from water and no card at all. The two rules can be satisfied at once, but only deliberately.
- Pull the MVUM for any national forest on the route — federal roads are closed unless designated, which is the opposite of the state presumption.
- Assume the 2WD-passable test gets applied to the worst hundred yards of the day, not the average.
⚠ One line covers buildings and it is the same everywhere. Michigan law makes entering any structure without the owner’s permission an offence — no sign required, and abandoned does not mean unowned. The access note on each destination in this dive already accounts for that; ruins, foundations and roofless masonry on public land are free, and that is most of what is worth seeing.
🔴 None of this is legal advice, and the rules move. The forest-road maps change every April; the statutes get amended. Re-check before a trip rather than trusting this page.
12.6 The six other states, side by side
Michigan’s rules are in the sections above. Here is what changes the moment you leave it. Every out-of-state destination in this dive is on federal land, so these are national-forest and national-park rules rather than state ones.
Table 5 — The six other states, side by side
| Michigan (state forest) | Ohio Wayne NF | Indiana Hoosier NF | Illinois Shawnee NF | Kentucky Daniel Boone NF | Tennessee GSMNP | North Carolina Pisgah / Nantahala | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Relationship to the road | 🔴 within 50 ft of the traveled portion | no road rule; 200 ft from water | 200 ft from roads | — | 100 ft from trails | n/a | 🔴 no camping within 1,000 ft of a public road except designated sites |
| Setback from water | — | 200 ft | 200 ft | 🔴 not near streams or lake shores at all | 🔴 300 ft | n/a | 100 ft (Nantahala) |
| Stay limit | 15 consecutive nights; 21 days dispersed Oct 1–May 1 | 14 days in 30 | — | — | 14 consecutive days in 30 | per reservation | 14 days in 30 — ⚠ and moving under 10 aerial miles does not reset it |
| Permit | 🔴 post a PR4134 card, leave it behind | — | — | — | 🔴 backcountry permit required (app or ranger station) | 🔴 permit + reservation, designated sites only | designated sites only |
| Dispersed camping at all? | yes | yes | yes — the most permissive here | yes, with exclusions | yes, free outside Red River Gorge | 🔴 NO | designated roadside sites only |
12.6.1 The five things that will actually catch you
🔴 1. The road rule inverts. Michigan’s R 299.924 makes it unlawful to park more than 50 feet from the traveled portion of the road. Pisgah makes it unlawful to camp within 1,000 feet of one. Indiana asks for 200 feet. The Michigan reflex — find a widened pull-off and tuck in beside the two-track — is the specific thing that is illegal in North Carolina.
🔴 2. There is no dispersed camping in Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Elkmont, Cataloochee and the Road to Nowhere are day destinations from a base outside the park. If the plan involves sleeping in the truck near the Smokies, the plan is wrong before it starts.
🔴 3. Kentucky wants a permit even though camping is free. Free is not the same as unregistered. Install the Daniel Boone app before leaving home — a ranger station is not much use at nine at night with no signal.
🔴 4. Ohio’s forest is a patchwork. Private land is interspersed throughout the Wayne, and the boundary is frequently unmarked on the ground. Carry the ownership layer offline; a green patch on a road atlas is not evidence.
🔴 5. Indiana’s setback list includes historic structures. In a forest whose entire attraction is that it grew over a town, you may not camp within 200 feet of the thing you drove down to see. Visit, then leave to sleep.
12.6.2 The general shape, once you are out of Michigan
Every federal rule above is some combination of 14 days in 30, a setback from water, and use an existing site. That is the national-forest default and it is a reasonable thing to assume when a district’s own page is silent — but ⚠ assume it, then verify with the district ranger, because the two rules that would have surprised us most (Pisgah’s 1,000 feet, Kentucky’s 300 feet and its permit) are both departures from that default rather than instances of it.
12.6.3 The two districts this dive left open — now closed
Cherokee National Forest (Tennessee), the ground that wraps the Smokies and the only realistic place to sleep near them, runs on Forest Order 08-04-00-22-180, its campsite-limitation order, in force for five years from execution:
- 14 consecutive days in any one location, developed or dispersed. On the fourteenth day the party must leave that area for at least seven days.
- 🔴 Dispersed campers must move at least TEN MILES in any direction — the longest reset anywhere in this dive, against five miles on the Ottawa and Hiawatha and one mile on Michigan state land.
- Five people to a single campsite, ten to a double; two vehicles per single site, four per double; campgrounds closed to anyone but registered campers between 10 p.m. and 6 a.m.
- 🔴 Food storage is forest-wide, not a campground rule. All food and beverages must be in an approved bear-proof container, a locked vehicle or a hard-sided camper at all times unless being eaten, prepared or transported. ⚠ A rooftop tent is not a hard-sided camper, and neither is a soft trailer top — on this forest the food lives in the cab.
- ⚠ Closures here are specific and live. Camping along the Cherohala Skyway is pushed beyond 300 yards of the road (order 08-04-04-22-179), and dispersed camping at Little Stony has been closed outright. Read the forest’s alerts page in the week before the trip, not the season before.
🔴 What could NOT be established, and is therefore not printed here as a rule: a forest-wide setback from water on the Cherokee. The figure in general circulation — 100 feet — traces to a camping website rather than to any Cherokee order or Forest Service page reached in this pass, so it is not repeated. Assume a setback exists, camp well back, and ask: Supervisor’s Office 423-476-9700.
⚠ One loose end worth a question rather than a guess. The order number carries 22, while the forest’s own alerts page displays an effective date of 21 October in a considerably later year. The provisions above are not in doubt; the year the clock started is.
Big South Fork is the other flagged item, and the first thing to fix is the category error: 🔴 it is a National Park Service unit, not a national forest, so none of the national-forest default applies to it.
- 🔴 A backcountry permit is required, and unlike Kentucky’s it is NOT free — $5 to $20 per trip depending on group size, half price for holders of an Interagency Senior or Access pass, bought online before arrival.
- There are no designated backcountry sites. Camping is at large, with the instruction to use an existing site rather than make a new one, and one permit covers a single trip of no more than 14 days at one site.
- 🔴 Camping is prohibited within 100 feet of the centreline of — or merely VISIBLE FROM — any paved road, and within 100 feet of a trail, a cave, a rock shelter, an arch, a cultural landscape, a grave site or a historic structure. Campfires are barred in or within 100 feet of historic structures, cabins, cemeteries, arches and rock shelters.
- ⚠ Overnight parking is only in designated lots — not the Bandy Creek Visitor Center — and a trip that touches Pickett CCC Memorial State Park needs a separate, free Tennessee state permit on top of the federal one.
⭐⭐ THE FINDING, and it is Indiana’s trap a second time: you may not camp within a hundred feet of the thing you drove down to see. Blue Heron is the best single destination in this dive and it is a preserved coal camp — which is to say, a historic structure with graves near it.
⭐ The clean answer is that Blue Heron has its own developed campground. The developed sites are Bandy Creek (Tennessee), Blue Heron (Kentucky), Alum Ford (Kentucky, primitive), and the equestrian Bear Creek (Kentucky) and Station Camp (Tennessee). For this dive’s purposes the ghost town and the campsite are the same stop, which is true nowhere else out of state.
⚠ Pisgah has temporarily closed dispersed camping, roads and trails before. Check the district’s current alerts rather than last season’s conditions.
🔴 None of this is legal advice, and the rules move — Michigan’s forest-road maps reissue every April 1, and federal districts publish closures through the season. Re-check before a trip rather than trusting this page.
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